Giuseppe Zanotti Fall-Winter 2024 "DECONSTRUCTED MINIMALISM"

MILAN - Giuseppe Zanotti's Fall-Winter 2024 footwear collection sees a shift in paradigm. The silhouette is undergoing a radical rethink. In a move away from the trends of past seasons, it is heralding a return to reflective ‘90s-inspired minimalism. The shapes remain bold but favour clear geometric lines, especially in the heels: from the 4.5 cm block-heel for daytime, to the sky-high heels that have made the brand famous. The mules have squared vamps, but the risk of striking a severe note is kept at bay by "disproportionate" accessories, like unexpected crystal embelishments or the minimalist metallic hand-stichting with a sartorial elegance. The collection includes essential ballerinas made with the comfortable slip-lasted construction, as well as leather riding boots. The colour palette is natural, warm and enveloping, featuring shades of amaranth, olive, chocolate brown, tan, nude, mud and black. Mirror finishes in gold and silver are replaced by matte hues. The leathers are exquisite, with a hammered finish along with pebbled textures that convey a vintage feel, alongside buttery suede and embossed crocodile, a symbol of timeless elegance. Brand signature features such as zips, buckles and jewels have been reworked, and now find their places throughout the collection as elements of "deconstructed minimalism". Zanotti has embraced the same philosophy in rethinking the men's collection. The shapes see a new take, making them longer and more squared in the toe. The iconic tuxedo shoe has abandoned heavy crystal embellishments to instead focus on discreet touches of light that describe a new concept of elegance. The craftsmanship is elevated to dizzying heights for the loafer in hammered leather or soft suede, stitched and pleated solely by hand. The biker world is viewed from a new and completely genderless angle, with a chunky yet featherlight sole teamed with sophisticated leather. Carrying through the genderless concept are luxe travel bags and maxi totes in soft nappa or crocodile-embossed leather. The sneaker range has been redesigned, and engages in dialogue with the rest of the collection, adopting its neutral hues and prevailing materials. Certain forms of excess and creative virtuosity have given way to a highly balanced and cohesive collection. The metal accessories are not dazzling; instead, they are inlaid and feature a vintage look. The new sneaker style, vaguely inspired by Japanese design in ultra-soft nappa, as well as the fur sandals and the GZ94 in felt wool, introduce a new concept of minimal yet substantial luxury.

Giuseppe Zanotti notes: "Until now, for me the shoe was not just an embodiment of the artisan tradition of Italy’s Romagna area - which is a forerunner in the luxury footwear industry - but also a symbol in its own right. The more ostentatious it was, adorned with metal, plates and rhinestones, the more powerful its impact. Like the custom creations made for Lady Gaga, icons of breath-taking balance, and the double-zip sneakers created with Kanye West which, all those years ago, were already flirting with the gender-neutral concept." For his professional approach, Zanotti has always been attuned to shifts in trends; he investigates the present time, in a world which is very different from that of the 2010s. "Today's ecosystem is perhaps more fragile, certainly more difficult to decipher and navigate. This has led to the need to work on different levels: I see maximalist virtuosity as a showy display with no value beyond that of aesthetics. Instead, now I prefer to focus my efforts on achieving a new vision of beauty," explains Zanotti.

Rejecting stale opulence has become a form of cultural resistance for the designer. The silhouettes featured in this new phase will see a change in shape, aiming for "deconstructed minimalism" which might, at first glance, seem somewhat disordered. As Gianfranco Ferrè, with whom Zanotti had the honour of working, once said, "the secret lies in disproportion, because when it is deliberate, an unexpected error can actually spark curiosity." It is a journey that cannot be completed in one season alone, but this Fall-Winter collection will see the completion of its first official stage: the ultimate goal is to re-imagine the present, navigating the maze of its complexity, taking steps that are new, gentle yet precise at the same time. A gentle revolution, on tiptoes.